Regular Troops

Build your kit in stages, assembling basic clothes & eating equipment is most important. We do not expect anyone to be “fully” kitted at their first event (or even by the end of their first season). Items with an asterisk [*] are the essential items to field with the Regiment & should be obtained first. Many items can be manufactured within the Regiment at reduced cost - ask around before you purchase an expensive piece of equipment.

Uniform

Regimental Coat –	Period documents indicate green cloth, but does not specify a specific shade; the Regiment has decided on forest green. Facings are documented as madder red. The regimental tailor can sew the coat for you at a reduced cost & with correct colors.
Breeches* –	Narrowfall drop front or the older button fly style. Fabrics: ~12 oz. linen, ticken, or Russia drill. Light brown preferred, white, dark blue, white with blue striped ticking are appropriate colors. Preferred to overalls (below).
Military overalls or trousers* –	Narrowfall drop front or the older button fly style. Should fit snugly along thighs & calves. Fabrics: linen, ticken, or Russia drill. Light brown preferred, white, blue, (white with blue pinstripes) are appropriate colors. While overalls were issued to the Regiment, they were substantially less common than breeches.
Shirt* –	Worn long, almost to the knees. Common work shirts did not have ruffles at the cuffs or neckline. Cuffs are narrow, approximately 1-1 1/2 inches wide. Fabric: 5-6 oz. linen or cotton. A light brown color has been documented to the Regiment, however, white, natural linen, or checked are appropriate colors. NO printed patterns.
Stockings* –	Light wool – gray color.
Cocked Hat* –	Black or white tie-ups & black tape trim are appropriate. Either square or rosette cockades are appropriate. The black & white ‘unity cockades’are late war & not accurate for our portrayal.
Waistcoat –	Sleeved or un sleeved, should fit closely to the body, & the waist line should come down low enough to cover the waistband of the breeches, & the sweep should cover the edges of the fall. Fabric: linen or light to medium wool. Light brown, green, gray, or white are appropriate colors.
Black leather shoes* –	Squared toes preferred, rough side out, may be buckled or tied. If modern shoes or boots are worn, gaiters or overalls must cover the shoes/boots.
Leather garters* –	To hold up the stockings or full gaiters. Check a local harness & tack shop for spur straps - they work nicely.
Black neck stock –	Cloth or leather, clasp or tie.
Frock –	Worn in lieu of Regimental coats to protect the shirt & waistcoat. Should be long & box frock style. No capes or fringes. Fabric: 5.5 - 12 oz. linen; occasionally 12 oz. ticken or 12.5 oz. Russian drill. Tan/natural linen or brownish-greenish are most appropriate, but blues, rust, & yellow are acceptable.
Full or Half Gaiters –	Used to keep dirt, mud & small stones out of your shoes. Both types should fit snugly. These are mandatory if modern shoes or boots are worn. Half-gaiters are to be black; full gaiters may be dark brown, dark green, or black.
Belt –	Leather with brass buckle.
Extra Stockings –	May be colors other than gray. Horizontal striped stockings are not appropriate - they were not popular until the 1790's.
Spare shirts –	As described above. The Regiment was typically issued two shirts at a time.
Moccasins –	Center-seamed style.
Neckerchief –	Worn in place of a missing neck stock. Rolled & then tied around the neck under the collar. Size varied between 12x12” to 36x36”. Solid color or checked.
Light Infantry Cap, Round or Flopped Hat –	The original Regiment was issued “caps” in addition to or in place of cocked hats. Round hats with cut down brims or flopped hats with the left side cocked up are also very functional & correct for field maneuvers. Full sized cocked hats are cumbersome & easily knocked off while in the woods.
Fatigue Cap or Knitted Wool Cap –	Fatigue caps were commonly worn when not on duty to save wear on cocked hats. Made from recycled Regimental coat cloth, they typically matched the Regiment colors. Plans for a simple fatigue cap are in The Packet III1. Knitted wool caps should either be a Machault or Monmouth style. Patterns for both styles are in the Packet II2. The familiar knitted "stocking cap" is not appropriate for our portrayal & not worn during public hours. Both are good for keeping warm on cool nights.

Arms & Accoutrements

Musket* –	English 1st or 2nd Edition (Tower) Long pattern, French (Charleville) Models 1746, 1763, or 1768 or Potsdam style equipped with a flashguard & hammer stall.
Cartridge Box or Pouch*–	Pouches are commonly referred to as cartridge boxes worn on a cross belt & boxes are belly boxes worn on a waist belt. The original Regiment was issued both boxes & pouches.
Bayonet with Scabbard –	Socket style bayonet worn on either a cross or waist belt; a plug bayonet is not appropriate for our impression. The original Regiment was notoriously under supplied with bayonets.
Belt Ax –	The blade end of the head must be sheathed.
Sword –	For Officers, Serjeants, & musicians (as available)

Equipment

Canteen* –	Tin, wooden, or hollowed gourd. Canteens are a safety requirement for all outdoor events.
Knife* –	Pocket knives were the most common, but small trade knives were often used. Bowie, "long hunter" & dagger type knives are not appropriate.
Weapons Cleaning Kit* –	Cotton or linen cleaning rags. Tow. A threaded worm &/or hemp string. A turnkey (screwdriver) the Pickering tool is not appropriate. Sweet (olive or vegetable) oil in a glass or tin bottle. A small container of brick dust.3
Haversack –	A square linen or hemp canvas shoulder bag for carrying food items.
Knapsack –	Either single or double haversack style. The “new and improved 1776” knapsack is not correct for Northern Theater units. May be purchased from within the Regiment with correct painted color & Regimental markings.
Blanket(s) –	One is documented (if not incorporated in a bedroll). Issued blankets were relatively light weight & natural wool color or dyed dark color. Whitney & Hudson Bay type blankets while very warm on cold nights, are inappropriate for public display.
Housewife –	Sewing kit
Fire Starting Kit–	Large chunk of flint Steel striker Several pieces of char cloth Tow

1 The Packet II: Being Another Collections of Patterns, Articles, and Essays Pertaining to the American Revolution. By Mark R. Tully. Ballindolloch Press. 2003.

2 The Packet III: Being Yet Another Collections of Patterns, Articles, and Essays Pertaining to the American Revolution. By Mark R. Tully. Ballindolloch Press. 2003-2007.

3 Used as an abrasive to remove corrosion, &c. Use only brick manufactured previous to 1930. Brick technology changes c. 1930 resulted in a considerably harder brick which is too abrasive & will scour and damage your musket & bright work. Ensure that you are using brick dust from 18th or 19th century bricks.